Frederic Mabileau’s 2008 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Les Rouilleres smells of blackberry, spinach, oregano, and hedge flowers. Very juicy and refreshing, with deep nuttiness and berry skin tartness, it finishes long and bittersweet, striking a satisfying balance between Franc-typical herbaceous notes, nuttiness, and ripe black fruits. It should prove highly versatile over the next couple of years. A Jon-David Headrick Selection, Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252-8245; also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476