It’s almost a shame to bear witness to Pichler’s 2005 Roter Veltliner because this year he ended up picking berries rather than bunches, and there were fewer than 250 bottles (which is why it was not declared as Smaragd.). Still the wine is too distinctive to ignore and Pichler’s fidelity to his one patch of old vines – “It’s very important to me to save this old grape variety in the Wachau,” he explains, “and who knows which other whites will still grow here in twenty-five years if the temperature keeps going up at the present rate”– is as admirable as are his results. A musky, meaty, smoky, pungently floral, Traminer-like aroma leads to a strikingly concentrated mouthful of flowers and meat. For all of this imposing wine’s pungent concentration and high alcohol, it registers neither bitterness nor heat in the finish.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700