The excellent 2000 La Storia Cuvee 32 Proprietary Red is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Aromas of new saddle leather, spice box, bay leaves, and sweet as well as sour cherries jump from the glass of this dense, chewy, medium to full-bodied, layered red. It is meant to be drunk over the next 2-3 years.Tel. (707) 433-3104 ; Fax (707) 433-5825

Although this wine is mainly Sangiovese, the 18% of Cabernet Sauvignon rules, with its intense blackcurrant and cassis flavors. New French oak also stars, contributing smoky vanillins. It’s a lush wine that highlights its appellation’s soft but complex tannins. As drinkable as it is, it will probably develop through the decade. ——S.H.(5/1/2004)—— 92