The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Schiena d’Asino is a compelling effort that reveals different shades of nuance with each taste. Made in a deceptively medium-bodied style, it is loaded with varietal Sangiovese notes of red cherries, tobacco, earthiness and smoke. The wine possess outstanding length and lovely overall balance, only the slightly drying tannins on the finish keep the score from going higher. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202

Spice, blackberry and cedar aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with a fruit and pepper aftertaste. Tough now. Needs a few years to soften. Best after 2008. 600 cases made. -JS