The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Schiena d’Asino is a gorgeous, nuanced wine laced with sweet tobacco, cedar, spices, leather and ripe dried cherries. The 2006 is all about delineation and elegance. Layers of fruit build toward the firm yet beautifully balanced finish. This deceptively medium-bodied wine has plenty of underlying structure, not to mention tons of sheer class and energy. Mastrojanni gave the 2006 42 months in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Mastrojanni is another estate that is in the midst of a major improvement in quality. This year Mastrojanni is introducing the Loreto, a new single-vineyard Brunello. Various American importers, including: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155;?Epic Wines, Aptos, CA; tel. (800) 322-3742

Iron, sanguine and medicinal herb overtones mark this distinctive red. At its core are cherry and rhubarb notes, with vibrant structure keeping it fresh and racy. Loads of energy on the back end make for a resonant finish. Best from 2013 through 2026. 414 cases made. -BS

Shiny, intense Rubingranat. Presents in the nose with emphasized fresh notes, juicy cherry, some violet, also peach. On the palate, like a firework of spices and ripe fruit, shows fine melt, fine, fine tannins.