A conflicted and hence confounding wine. The nose is very oaky, but it’s a pointed, almost piercing wood and clove bouquet. The wine is fierce in the mouth, with kicking tannins and acidity pushing bulldozer-like blackberry and bitter espresso flavors. With 6% Merlot, this Patagonian Malbec has its virtues but isn’t as friendly as past vintages.——M.S.(5/1/2008)—— 87