A savory and smoky wine that impresses with its licorice, spice and bacon aromas along with corpulence and length. There’s more than enough oak here, but the sandalwood, mocha and wood-driven spice notes blend into the wine’s big-berry fabric rather than dominate. Overall there’s fine balance, black fruit essence, depth of flavor and a long, toasty finish. 1,800 cases produced. Drink now through 2013.——M.S.(12/31/2010)—— 92