Bastianich’s 2004 Vespa Bianco (45% Chardonnay, 45% Sauvignon and 10% dried Picolit) is initially shy and reserved. With some air it reveals wonderfully nuanced layers of fruit supported by a lovely vein of minerality which gives the wine notable continuity on the palate as well as a long, clean finish. The wine continued to put on weight in the glass and clearly has the stuffing to develop further complexity in bottle, although I would prefer to enjoy it on the younger side. That said, recent bottles of the 1999 were still in great shape. Joe Bastianich’s estate is located in Friuli’s Colli Orientali appellation, a region known more for its reds than its whites. The estate releases two Tocai selections, a base bottling made from purchased fruit, as well as their Tocai Plus which is made from estate-grown fruit but only in vintages that allow for a late harvest. The range also includes Vespa Bianco (Chardonnay and Sauvignon with a small percentage of dried Picolit) and Calabrone, (Merlot, Refosco, Cabernet Franc and Pignolo). Importer: Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312-8921