Niellon, like many of his forthright colleagues, described the 1997 whites as "delicious and easy to drink." No hyperbole at this address. In the corner of Michel Niellon's cellar stands a barrel on which he places the bottles he serves visitors. When I arrived for my annual tasting, Niellon did what he always does, he moved those bottles to the floor, and pulled new, unopened ones from the stacks awaiting shipping. To my shock they were painfully closed and reeked of sulfur. After some prodding, Niellon acquiesced and allowed me to taste from the wine that had been opened for a few hours. Readers take note: these comments are from a bottled wine that had been opened and had benefited from exposure to air. The Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes has floral red berry aromas and a deeply rich yet balanced personality. This offering is filled with delightful waves of minerals, flint, chalk, lemons, and crisp pears. Its medium body is beautifully delineated, concentrated, and has admirable persistence. Anticipated maturity: now-2006+. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.