Strongly marked by rather stinky aromas at first, this wine reveals its full majesty on the palate, where it’s lush and round without being soft, filled with baked apple, vanilla, honey and spice notes balanced by ripe acidity. Layered and long on the finish, where it reveals more complexity with every sip. Give it a vigorous decanting if you open a bottle now, or wait 10–20 years, maybe longer.——J.C.(10/1/2007)—— 94