The Potel village, Derriere La Grange, and Les Echanges Chambolle bottlings were a bit fragile and drying – presumably as a consquence of hail, and despite attempts to nurture and fatten them gently on lees borrowed from other villages – but a 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees steered clear of trouble. Sweet, lily-like floral scents and fresh red berries rise from the glass. A depth of tart red fruits (cherry, rhubarb), toasted nuts, and clean meat and marrow inform a broth-like palate that is well concentrated though light in weight. Chalky mineral impressions and fine tannin add to the sense of layering without engendering any sense of austerity. Notes of brown spices and underbrush contribute further complexity to a satisfyingly savory, juicy finish. This should remain lovely for at least the next 4-5 years. Among the Potel bottlings that I was not able to sample were Chambolle Haut Doix and Les Amoureuses, which one has every reason to believe would have been the top of their village's class this year. Nicolas Potel consistently favors promoting ripeness at low potential alcohol and consistently eschews chaptalization. He is also a fan of freshness and clarity in Pinot, while maintaining notably low levels of sulfur. A vintage where a significant share of fruit came in near or above 14% potential alcohol and was shadowed by botrytis was thus a challenge, which seems to have been selectively well met. (For more on the style and methods associated with Maison Nicolas Potel – whose wines are sourced from a mixture of contract fruit and purchased juice – consult my report in issue 171.) Despite the huge number of 2006s I tasted here, incidentally, they did not represent the entire Potel vintage collection. In May, 2009, Potel left the negociant firm that bears his name (and which belongs to the Cottin brothers, owners of Laboure-Roi) to devote himself entirely to his own domaine and negociant operation, Maison Roche de Bellene, which crushed its first grapes with the 2007 vintage (in part from Potel holdings that were showcased in Maison Potel bottlings of vintages 2005 and 2006). Long-time cellarmaster Fabrice Lesne has now assumed direction of Maison Potel. By the way, suggested retail prices for the 2006s here took a sharp downturn vis-a-vis those for the 2005s, an occurrence worth noting for its rarity. (That said, of course the effective, eventual retail prices for all 2006s have turned on market factors that transcended cellar door prices, let alone the parameters envisioned by national importers). Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Multifaceted nose, slightly intrusive herbal notes, but multilayered. Concentrated, and a bit aggressive. Big oak finish.