The Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Reyssie Reserve Particuliere was vinified in oak barrels, two-thirds of which were new. It reveals smoke, pears, apples, honeysuckle, and grilled wood aromas. On the palate, this medium-to-full-bodied, dense, and powerful wine has admirable purity of fruit (primarily white peaches and apples) and a mouth-coating oily texture. With no hard edges, this wine offers pure, unadulterated pleasure. I must confess that it took considerable self-discipline not to swallow at my tasting. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.

The Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Reyssie Reserve Particuliere was vinified in oak barrels, two-thirds of which were new. It reveals smoke, pears, apples, honeysuckle, and grilled wood aromas. On the palate, this medium-to-full-bodied, dense, and powerful wine has admirable purity of fruit (primarily white peaches and apples) and a mouth-coating oily texture. With no hard edges, this wine offers pure, unadulterated pleasure. I must confess that it took considerable self-discipline not to swallow at my tasting. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.