The knock-out, medium-bodied 2004 The Hermit Crab Viognier/Marsanne (70% and 30% respectively) possesses exotic notes of litchi nuts, apricots, and honeysuckle. Dry and fresh, with no evidence of wood, this fruity, character-filled white will provide plenty of pleasure over the next 1-2 years. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Smells like fresh laundry, and has modest pear flavors on the palate. Fairly full in the mouth, and finishes with a sour peach-pit note. ——D.T.(10/1/2006)—— 86