The 2007 Fleurie Les Garants, more rarified and clear-fruited, gives an impression of blackberry distillate mingled with stones and mineral salts, and boasts a remarkable penetrating finishing brightness and lift. There may always be a slightly strident, lean side to the best, youthfully high-acid 2007 Beaujolais, but it will be interesting to see how they evolve. I’d tentatively plan on enjoying this at anywhere from 2-5 years age. If you encounter any of Chermette’s 2005s still in the marketplace – even his appellation Beaujolais – including his Moulin-a-Vent bottlings (which retail for more than $25) do not hesitate!From his base in southern Beaujolais, Pierre Chermette (like nearby Jean-Paul Brun) has become one of the beacons of Beaujolais quality, as well as a landholder in the “crus” of northern Beaujolais. (Since his label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800