Bouland’s 2009 Chiroubles – raised in tank, and grown not far from his winery in Corcelette, a tiny hamlet at the northwestern edge of the Morgon appellation – evinces ripe red and black raspberry, musky peony perfume, and a decided smokiness. Wonderfully plush and rich, it retains infectious brightness in a long finish that also features hints of coriander and toasted pecan. Uncannily well-balanced and seamless for its 14.2% alcohol, I suspect this will perform well for at least 2-3 years, though I would personally favor enjoying it in the flower of its youthful perfume and fruit. It’s clear by now that Daniel Bouland is one of Beaujolais’s major as well as most consistent talents, and it is encouraging to be witnessing the expansion of his domaine (now ten hectares). Most of Bouland’s vines are old, and his young parcels have been planted with selections massales from old vineyards. All of the 2009 cuvees – based on fruit not harvested before late in the first week in September and displaying deep, healthy color – came in at just over 14% alcohol, but none showed ill-effects. A couple of lots of Morgon were so late to go through malo that they were still gaseous when I visited in April, but Bouland’s four cuvees destined for the U.S. had just been bottled, from which they also appeared not to have suffered.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800