Readers who have tasted many Alsatian Vendange Tardives and have found them to be too expressive, heavy-handed, or sweet to accompany meals may want to taste Ostertag's 1997s. While this wine has high levels of residual sugar, it is neither ponderous, heavy-handed, or excessively assertive as some VTs can be. In fact, it is so well-balanced, elegant, and easy to drink that I did a double-take when I heard the sugar level that it supported.Peaches imbued with new oak spices are found in the medium-bodied 1997 Pinot Gris Muenchberg's aromatics. This concentrated, proportioned, and extremely well-crafted wine boasts an apricot, mirabelle, and spice-laden character. This flavorful yet highly-drinkable VT will be at its best if consumed over the next 15 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.