Representing the “entry level” Riesling at this domaine, Josmeyer’s 2004 Riesling Le Kottabe offers pungent lime zest, iodine and a huckleberry and cassis-like note of black fruit in the nose. In the mouth it is refined and caressing in texture but vivacious, juicy and exuberant, with a thirst-quenching finish that promptly calls for the next sip. Under the viticultural direction of Jean Meyer’s son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart, this domaine has embraced biodynamic methods. Stylistic sensitivity, concern with cuisine compatibility, a special fondness for that underdog variety Auxerrois, and staggered release of wines continue to distinguish this fine estate, which in recent years has curtailed its negotiant activities. Many of the 2005 wines here were showing considerable reticence, which could represent a phase in their collective evolution. (Due to time constraints, I unfortunately did not have opportunity to taste the complete collective offerings of vintages 2004 and 2005 from this address, but any wine I tasted is referred to in the course of my coverage, even if it is not singled-out for a score.)Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. 847.604.8900

Lacks the breadth and expansiveness on the palate of Josmeyer’s Le Dragon bottling, but features crisp lime and green apple flavors wrapped in a shroud of wet-stone minerality. Picks up a faint anise note on the finish.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 87