The 2008 Barolo Brunate is gorgeous. An open, beguiling bouquet redolent of Christmas cake, plums, menthol and licorice melds into an expressive core of dark fruit. The mystery and allure of Brunate is on full display. The 2008 was quite open just after bottling, but it has begun to shut down since then. Both times I have tasted it, the wine has been translucent, weightless and yet powerful at the same time; in other words, the embodiment of what makes Barolo such a fascinating and complex wine. Simply put, this is textbook Barolo from one of La Morra’s top vineyards. The 2008 Brunate is steeped in class, but readers will have to be patient. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Proprietor Manuel Marchetti brought in his fruit in mid-October. The Baroli were fermented in cement and steel, and were then aged in oak casks for two years. Marcarini remains one of the best values in traditionally made, cellar-worthy Barolo. Both of these wines are fabulous. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Offers an initial whiff of flowers, with tar and eucalyptus accenting the cherry fruit. The firm structure takes over, and this finishes on the dry side. A traditional style. Best from 2015 through 2028. 2,000 cases made.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add