Varietal Graciano will never fit into the mold of “tried and true,” but this 2004 from top-level producer Contino shows the grape in its most positive light. The nose is natural, with hints of cola and ripe berries. The feel is brawny and intense, with semi-searing acids offset by ripe tannins. Finishes well, with a cleansing wave of red fruit and citrusy flavors. More of a novelty than anything, but a fine wine in and of itself.——M.S.(8/1/2008)—— 91