Contino gives its single-vineyard Graciano all that it can, and still the wine, despite its deep purple color, is tight as a drum. There’s juniper and blueberry on the nose, and then tangy blackberry flavors with an herbal slant. As varietal Graciano goes, this is nicely done. But it’s up to you to decide if varietal Graciano is worth $147 a pop.——M.S.(6/1/2009)—— 87