Now that the Penner-Ashes have taken full ownership of Dussin Vineyard – amid which their facility sits – they have included the word “estate” prominently on the label of their 2011 Pinot Noir Estate Dussin Vineyard, and the name “Dussin” will be phased out in coming years. With more refined tannins and a welcome, vintage-typical sense of lift vis-a-vis several of this collection’s Pinots, this also benefits from its slightly lower alcohol to deliver an exhilaratingly juicy burst of pit, herb and black tea-tinged fresh dark cherry and blackberry, allied to a lentil sprout-like positive vegetal and nutty piquancy. Underling suggestions of beef stock and game add depth and savor to this impressive Pinot from only eight year old (and thus, in theory, awkwardly “adolescent”) vines. It should merit following through at least 2020. Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash have once again fielded a successful collection in which they showcase their diverse vineyard by means of diverse cellar approaches, in some instances turning out Pinots that struck me as highly vintage-typical and in others as somewhat against-the-grain. (For more about Penner-Ash methodology and vineyard sources, consult my introductory coverage of them in Issue 202.) Tel. (503) 554 5545