The 2007 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is lovely, offering up aromas of orange oil, smoky pear, pastry cream and an exotic top note of coconut. Medium-bodied, chiseled and incisive, it's tightly wound and without much flesh on its bones, concluding with a vanillin-inflected finish. It's a fine effort, but it can't match the wines Lamy is producing today.