Ample and demonstrative when I tasted it from barrel, Lamy's 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly has tightened up after bottling. Unwinding in the glass with notes of orange oil, nutmeg, pear and toasted bread, it's medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with a coiled and concentrated core, tangy acids and a long, saline finish. The only missing ingredient is time.