Olivier Lamy's 2013 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is showing brilliantly, wafting from the glass with scents of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, white flowers and beeswax. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with an incisive spine of acidity, superb concentration and a long, intensely mineral finish. It's at the very beginning of its drinking window.