So delicious, complex and dramatic, it might almost be from the Northern Rhone, except for a certain softness that identifies it as warm California. Hard to describe the waves of blackberries, black and red currants, grilled meat, mocha, licorice, graphite, Tabasco and pepperspice flavors, and how they change every second. This is the best Black Bear Syrah that Zaca Mesa has ever produced. Now through 2012. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 94