Acidic and out of balance is the 2004 Syrah Black Bear Block Estate, which is a shame as it possesses generous quantities of red and black fruits, a judicious touch of wood, and seemingly impressive purity. However, the acidity keeps the wine clipped and one-dimensional.Other wines tasted: 2006 Viognier, 2005 Roussanne.Tel. (805) 688-9339; Fax (805) 688-8796

The wine is certainly dense and layered, showing waves of blackberries and cherries, sweet leather and Asian spice, olive tapenade and beef carpaccio, and sweet, smoky new oak. It’s extremely complex, and should develop in the cellar, although not for a long time. Best now through 2010.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 93