While the 2001 Syrah Black Bear Block reveals serious concentration, it still comes across as a bit too oaky, monolithic, and simple. Tel. (805) 688-9339

Whart a splendid job Zaca Mesa is doing lately. This is a huge wine, distinctly Californian, explosive in black cherry, chocolate, blackcurrant, leather, coffee and spiced rum flavors, yet richly balanced in fine tannins and acids, and dry. It's mind-blowingly good now, and probably best in its flashy, fleshy youth.——S.H.(8/1/2005)—— 92