Bisceglia’s 2004 Aglianico del Vulture Gudarra flows onto the palate with vibrant dark cherries, smoke, tar and licorice. It offers excellent focus and definition in a fresh, sinewy style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

There is a very pretty herbal quality here that helps to enhance the wine’s natural aromas of dark fruit, plum cake, black pepper, dried plum and prune. It boasts thick concentration and has gritty, nervous tannins on the close.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 88