The estate’s 2005 Aglianico del Vulture Gudarra is made from the oldest vines on the property, although this is a very young winery, so vine age must be considered in relative terms. The Gudarra is a sumptuous, super-ripe Aglianico that boasts an expansive, creamy-textured core of jammy blueberries, spices, minerals and new French oak. Still remarkably youthful, this exuberant wine will only get better in bottle although it is pretty irresistible today. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. I was struck by the wines I tasted from Bisceglia this year. The property is located in Basilicata, where Aglianico reigns supreme. That said, the estate has had notable success with international grapes as well. These stylish wines reflect the personality of proprietor Mario Bisceglia and bode extremely well for the future. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

There are ripe notes here of blackberry preserves, blueberry tart, chocolate and black stone that accompany this wine over its long finish. The wine has jackhammer tannins and enormous structure that need a few more years in the bottle to soften up.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 88