Gulfi’s 2004 NeroBuffaleffj flows from the glass with a dense core of super-ripe fruit, chocolate, minerals, spices, sweet toasted oak and new leather. It also packs plenty of structure but at the moment the tannins are concealed by the sheer density of the fruit. The wine is made in a somewhat extroverted (some might say over the top) style, but I loved it for its sheer exuberance. Gulfi is one of my favorite producers of Nero d’Avola. The estate owns vineyards in several appellations, the most important of which are in the Val di Noto, between Pachino and Noto, an area long-renowned for its Nero d’Avolas. The vineyards are planted to the free-standing system known here as alberello. Gulfi makes several single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas that offer notable complexity as well as personality. The NeroBaronj is the most accessible of the wines while the NeroBuffalej is the most opulent. I imagine most readers will have a tough time pronouncing the names of these wines, so keep in mind that the “j” is pronounced like an “i”. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202