The 2008 Nerobufaleffj comes across as being on the edge of ripeness in this vintage. An opulent, sleek wine, the Nerobufaleffj offers up racy red cherries, flowers, mint, tobacco and licorice. Despite its irrepressibly exotic and at times opulent personality, the 2008 remains relatively light on its feet. Readers can look forward to another 5-7 years of fine drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. When I think of benchmark producers of Nero d’Avola one of the first names that comes to mind is Gulfi. The estate makes a number of single-vineyard Nero d’Avolas that provide an opportunity to explore the various shades this great Sicilian variety is capable of expressing. Gulfi’s best-known wines emerge from head-trained Nero d’Avola in the Pachino and Val di Noto districts, all farmed organically. The Reseca, a Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of the Etna, is the exception, but it, too, is fabulous. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202