The 1996 Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato (made from 100% Trebbiano) reveals a fresh, citrusy, tropical fruit-like nose with hints of limes, apricots, lemons, and roasted nuts. Medium-bodied, with an excellent texture, this is a pleasing, exceptionally well-made Trebbiano to enjoy over the next year. Based on my most recent tastings, this large estate (about 98 acres) has significantly increased the quality of its wines. This excellent dry white adds to the growing volume of evidence that Italy's dry whites are getting better and better. A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620