The 2009 Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato, the estate’s top Lugana, is aged in French oak, which naturally gives the wine additional textural richness and volume. The 2009 Riserva needs time in the glass for some of its oakiness to blow off. When it does, the wine impresses for its impeccable texture and fabulous overall balance. The oak works well here, but I am not sure the Riserva is meaningfully better than the regular version, especially considering the price difference. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Zenato is one of the historic names in Valpolicella. The estate makes a wide range of wines, but truly excels with Amarone. A recent vertical tasting of Zenato’s Amarone Riserva Sergio Zenato going back to 1980 was eye-opening for many reasons, not the least of which was seeing just how well the wines age. Readers will find notes from that tasting on www.erobertparker.com A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620