The 2006 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is medium ruby-colored with an expressive perfume of spice box, earth notes, cherry, and raspberry. Friendly and easy-going, it also has good concentration and depth leading to a lengthy, fruit-filled close. Drink it over the next eight years. Ponzi Vineyards remains a reference point for American Pinot Noir with winemaker Luisa Ponzi at the top of her game.Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

A beautiful nose greets you immediately, laden with allspice, plum and evocations of cola and cherry. This is a complex, varietal, nuanced Pinot Noir that brings together the classic Oregon mix of fruit, herb and earth flavors. The finish tires just a bit, leaving a residual impression of green tea tannins.——P.G.(11/15/2008)—— 89