The 2007 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is deep crimson-colored with an enticing bouquet of toasty oak, cinnamon, allspice, violets, and black cherry. Medium-bodied and elegant on the palate, it has plenty of savory fruit, enough ripe tannin to evolve for 1-2 years, and a silky finish. This tasty effort will deliver pleasure through 2017. For the past year, the Ponzi family has had winedom’s most famous name. When I met up with Luisa Ponzi, now in her 15th year as winemaker, she was able to laugh about the free publicity, particularly from the New York Times. Aside from that, Ponzi Vineyards continues to roll on as they move into their new winery in time for the 2009 crush. Five of their value-priced wines were reviewed in Issue 184 on the website.Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

Complex aromas have become a Luisa Ponzi hallmark; this one a potpourri of violets, cherry tobacco, clove and cedar, leading into a light, tart palate bursting with wild strawberries. The alcohol rests at 13.5%, but the wine is fully ripe, just not over the top. Graceful, perfectly executed winemaking, in a difficult vintage.——P.G.(7/1/2009)—— 88