A blend of 88% Syrah, 8% Grenache, and 4% Mourvedre, the 2003 Bone Rock James Berry Vineyard, which will not be released until the fall, is a structured and broodingly backward offering. It boasts an inky/purple color in addition to classic aromas of blackberry liqueur, camphor, pain grille, and subtle notions of Provencal herbs and pepper. Full-bodied, with tremendous richness, great balance, and sweet tannin, this stunning, marvelously concentrated wine should benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and last for 12-15. The 2003s were bottled about seven weeks before my visit, but I could hardly complain about the fact they weren’t “showing.” I highly recommend that wine enthusiasts who love Rhone Ranger wines pay a visit to the James Berry Vineyard, one of the true grand cru sites in the region.Tel. (805) 227-4662

Here’s a young wine that opens with a blast of white pepper, then airs slowly to reveal layers of cassis, grilled meat, chocolate, anise, tar and toasty oak. In the mouth, it’s flamboyant and full-bodied, a little soft, but decadent. This wine is so rich in fruit, you could pour it over vanilla ice cream. It will be fabulous with a charbroiled steak.——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 94