This is a classic Chateauneuf du Pape, redolent of aromas of seaweed, pepper, kirsch, spice box, and beautiful fruit flavors. Incense, loamy soil notes, pepper, spice, plums, and black cherries soar from the nose of the Mediterranean smelling and tasting 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale. This is a broad, heady, expansively flavored wine with plenty of alcohol, glycerin, and rich flavors. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Century-old vines are the source of this top cuvee from a 5-acre parcel owned by Raymond Usseglio. It is ripe, with tarry and black fig flavors, along with thyme and herbes de Provence. The tannins are hugely dense, almost impenetrable at this stage, but this will develop into a great wine in 10 years. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 93