There’s something Chablisian about this Chardonnay. It’s partly the acidity, which is high, and partly the gunmetal minerality, courtesy of another cool vintage in the southern Napa/Carneros region where the grapes were grown. Add in oak-infused pineapples, peaches and pears, and you have a fairly significant wine that could even benefit from some years in the cellar.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 90