Speaking of the outliers, the 2008 Pinot Noir Ferrington Vineyard has a dark ruby/purple color and an attractive nose of blue and red fruits and spice. With zesty acidity, medium body, tart red and black fruit flavors, and slightly more concentration than normal (small yields no doubt accounted for this), the wine shows no sign of the smoke taint that was a problem in the Anderson Valley. It should drink nicely for 4-5 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Awkward now, with all the components apart. Lots of oak here, ripe jammy fruit there, acidity kicking in midpalate, tannins locking down the finish. A very fine wine, rich, exotic and masculine, with a spine of steel, but it needs time. Best after 2013.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 93