As long as the price keeps creeping up on this wine, we’re happy to say that the quality seems better and the oak level lower than in past years. This version of Milmanda offers roasted corn, walnut and other smoky, barrel-based aromas. Throughout the fruit is shy but the mouthfeel and oak are smooth. Finishes with a blast of white pepper and toast.——M.S.(12/15/2007)—— 88