Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, with a great many vines more than 50 years old, this is an enormously complex wine. Fruit doesn’t dominate. Flowers and minerals do, with flavors of stones, herbs and earth. What fruit there is brings to mind tart limes and lemons, perhaps white apricots and peaches, with peppery Asian spice accents. Has the weight of a great red wine, and is bone dry. Don’t drink it too cold. Will age for a long time, perhaps a decade, in a cool cellar.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 95