The 1998 Hermitage blanc (95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne) is a restrained, elegant white Hermitage with medium body, subtle toasty oak, and good ripeness. It will not win any awards for flamboyance, but one has to respect its delicacy. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625