The 2008 Chianti Colli Fiorentini Il Castelvecchio offers up plump dark fruit, tobacco, tar and spices in a juicy if somewhat brooding style. The Castelvecchio is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot that spent 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Consulting oenologist Luca d’Attoma oversees winemaking at Castelvecchio, a small property in the Colli Fiorentini appellation. Importers: Aventine Hill Wines Llc., Westport, CT; Atlantic Importing, Framingham, MA; tel. (508) 665-4272; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799