The 2008 Pinot Noir Quarter Mile Lane is from a site planted in 1974. Medium ruby in color with a sexy bouquet of spice box, smoke, floral notes, cherry, and raspberry, it is a mouth-filling, succulent offering that is packed with flavor. Drink it from 2012 to 2020. Adelsheim Vineyards’ 2008 Pinot Noirs are uniformly outstanding as they were able to take advantage of the great fruit provided by the vintage. Tel. (503) 538-3652; www.adelsheim.com

Sadly, just 44 cases were produced, from Block 1 of the original estate vineyard. Rhubarb, cherry, cinnamon and suggestions of light tropical fruits are delicately entwined here. It would be easy to skip over the wine’s complexity; you must let it breathe open and it will reward you with fascinating, subtle layers that slowly unravel. ——P.G.(12/15/2010)—— 94