The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret du Sabon is more open and evolved, with a perfumed, sexy style. It offers a complex array of sweet red fruits, leather, flowers, peppery herbs and spice to go with a pure, elegant, graceful style. It's more approachable than the 2001, yet doesn't quite match that vintage's core of fruit or concentration. Plan on drinking this over the coming 4-5 years. A brilliantly run estate, Domaine Roger Sabon covers close to 44 acres that are spread throughout the appellation, and the wines have been made by Didier Negron since 2001. This retrospective focused on their top cuvee, the Secret du Sabon, which is a field blend of roughly (the exact blend is a "secret") 90% Grenache with the balance other permitted varieties (from 100-year-old vines), that-s aged all in 600-liter barrels. While the first released vintage was 1998, they also bottled a small amount in 1990, 1995 (the only one I've tasted? superb) and 1996. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC: tel. (704) 358-1565

For readers fortunate enough to latch onto the super-expensive Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon, the 2000 may not be as profound as the 1998, but it is a terrific effort. A deep plum/purple color is accompanied by subtle notes of pepper, spice, truffles, earth, smoked meats, prunes, and a wealth of black currant and cherry fruit. Although full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, with majestic layers of flavor that unfold on the palate, the 2000 remains closed and tannic, so patience is suggested. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2020. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565