A magical elixir, the 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon matches the other-worldly 1998 in its seamlessness, extraordinary richness, unctuous texture, and incredible perfume. Its inky ruby/purple color is accompanied by gorgeous aromas of roasted herbs, cassis, blackberries, graphite, wood smoke, and an assortment of red as well as black fruits. Amazingly full-bodied, with a viscous texture, beautifully integrated acidity, tannin, and alcohol, this massively proportioned yet gorgeously balanced, impeccably pure wine is one of the world’s greatest expressions of ancient vines and natural/artisinal winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon—a 100-point wine earlier in its life (albeit from different reviewers)—seems just a little past its apogee. It's still plenty dark in hue, but shows a touch of bricking at the rim. On the nose, it offers up notes of tar, black cherries, blackberries and cocoa. Full-bodied, rich and velvety on the palate, with a long, elegant finish, it's enormously enjoyable, and it's possible that with a bit more time in the decanter, or from another bottle, this wine could still reach 100 points. That said, it's worth remembering that wines are not immortal, and they are made to be consumed, not hoarded indefinitely.