Even more backward and tasting like dry vintage port is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret des Sabon. This beauty has extraordinary intensity as well as a nose of smoked meats, tobacco leaf, kirsch, graphite, ink and something that seems to be in many of the great vintages of Le Secret des Sabon, the smell of lacquered Peking duck. Massive and full-bodied, it needs 8-10 years of cellaring and should last for 40 years or more. Assuming you can find any of the 150-300 cases produced, it should only be purchased by patient connoisseurs who can wait for its magic to unfold. Kudos to the Sabon family for producing wines of consistently brilliant quality.(Not yet released)This estate has been at the top of its game for many years and any partisan of Rhone Valley wines (especially the southern Rhone) who has not yet tried a wine from Domaine Roger Sabon should make every effort to do so. They produce four separate Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees and have hit home runs in both 2009 and 2010, the finest back-to-back vintages I have ever tasted from this 42-acre estate run by the large Sabon family, in this case, Jean-Jacques, Julien, Gilbert and Denis. They own 15 parcels spread throughout the appellation, most of them concentrated in the western and eastern sectors north of the village. The brilliant 2009s are among the finest of the vintage.Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC: tel. (704) 358-1565

On another level, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Secret du Sabon is insanely good and possibly up there with some of the greatest Chateauneufs ever made. Loaded with notions of black fruits, black licorice, roasted herbs and olive tapenade, it's a thrilling example of Grenache and of Chateauneuf du Pape. Full-bodied, massively concentrated and structured, it's not for those looking for immediate appeal and needs another 4-5 years in the cellar. A brilliantly run estate, Domaine Roger Sabon covers close to 44 acres that are spread throughout the appellation, and the wines have been made by Didier Negron since 2001. This retrospective focused on their top cuvee, the Secret du Sabon, which is a field blend of roughly (the exact blend is a "secret") 90% Grenache with the balance other permitted varieties (from 100-year-old vines), that-s aged all in 600-liter barrels. While the first released vintage was 1998, they also bottled a small amount in 1990, 1995 (the only one I've tasted? superb) and 1996. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC: tel. (704) 358-1565