Antano’s single vineyard 2005 Sagrantino di Montefalco Colleallodole takes Sagrantino to a level of elegance this typically rustic variety has rarely achieved. Sadly, there are only 1,400 bottles of this magical wine to go around. The aromatics alone are extraordinary in their definition and freshness, qualities that come to life on the palate, where the wine flows with cherries, violets, leather, licorice and sweet herbs, all of which are framed by elegant, silky tannins. The finish is long, pure and simply sublime, particularly for a wine of this size. The Colleallodole remains quite primary, and while it is sure to improve with age, it is also incredibly delicious at this early stage. The south-facing Collealodole vineyard is one of the most privileged sites in Montefalco. First produced in 1997, Antano’s Sagrantino Colleallodole is a benchmark wine for the appellation. The 2005 is impressive for many reasons, not the least of which is that the vineyards were less than ten years old when this wine was made. It will be fascinating to see how this vineyard develops over the coming years. A bottle of the 1999 I tasted alongside the 2005 was still fresh and glorious with tons of complexity. That wine was made by Antano’s father, and while some imperfections remain from a lack of cleanliness in the barrels used at the time, the wine is still quite beautiful. When cooperage is handled well here the wines are nothing short of exceptional. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.
Antano was the last stop in a long day of tastings in Montefalco. Rather than feeling tired, though, I found myself totally energized by the superb wines I tasted here. Some of the most unique, compelling wines in Montefalco emerge from these cramped cellars in Bevagna. Proprietor Francesco Antano is Montefalco’s answer to Giuseppe Rinaldi, the iconic Barolo producer. It is therefore no surprise his wines reveal many of the same characteristics as Rinaldi’s Barolos, most notably a superb purity that perfectly captures the qualities of grape variety, vintage and terroir. Antano is humble and down to earth, with both feet squarely on the ground, admirable qualities that are all too rare these days. Antano produces roughly 60,000 bottles a year from 15 hectares of vineyards located in Bevagna, the warmest region within Montefalco. The wines possess striking aromatics, gorgeous fruit and remarkable balance which makes them approachable when young but also capable of developing beautifully in bottle. Stylistically the wines bridge modern and traditional styles with a distinct leaning towards the classic. These are among the most accessible wines from Montefalco when young, which also makes them a great starting point for readers who want to explore the breadth of Montefalco’s oenological beauty. In particular, the single-vineyard Sagrantino Colleallodole is an essential wine for any well stocked cellar. Antano gives his wines long macerations on the skins and favors casks for his Montefalco Rosso, Montefalco Rosso Riserva and Sagrantino, while the Sagrantino Collealodolle is aged in neutral French oak tonneaux. The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling and they will benefit from a few hours of aeration prior to being served. Simply put, readers should do whatever they can to get their hands on these splendid reference-point wines.
Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504
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