The current offerings all performed significantly better than when I last tasted them with Leclerc in November, 1991. The Gevrey-Chambertin-Les Cazetiers offers an opaque dark ruby/garnet color, a sweet, roasted nut, meaty, vanillin, black-raspberry-scented nose, immense body and richness, as well as a highly extracted, blockbuster finish. It should be drinkable in 2-3 years and last for 12-15.At the insistence of several American clients, these wines were bottled unfiltered six months earlier than normal. The cuvee that will be sold in Europe will be bottled early next year. Many observers have felt that Leclerc's practice of bottling his wines after more than two years in 100% new oak was excessive. There is no doubting that in top, highly concentrated vintages such as 1985 and 1990 the wines can tolerate more oak than in light years such as 1991 or 1987. Importers: various American importers, including Ideal Wines, Medford, MA and William Grant and Sons, Edison, NJ.

Very traditional in style and a bit woody, with chestnut, cedar and plum aromas and flavors and a chunky texture. Aged for about two and a half years in oak casks and not filtered. Drinkable now. 375 cases made. -