The Les Cazetiers, from one of the great vineyards of this appellation, is extravagantly rich and luxurious, loaded with layers of sumptuous fruit, and has mind-boggling length. It is undeniably delicious young, but will age well until 1997-2000. The 1985s are the best Philippe Leclerc has ever made.

Ripe plum and cherry flavors accompanied by a nice touch of wood and spice, and a silky texture. Lively acidity and sweet-seeming fruit make it attrac tive. -